The Legend of the Rolex COMEX:its history by 41WATCH

The COMEX Company

Created in 1962 in Marseille by Henri Germain Delauze, the Compagnie Maritime d'Expertise (better known by the acronym COMEX) quickly became a pioneer in deep industrial diving. Comex has distinguished itself particularly in the development of the oil services industry around the world. The name of the Comex is also associated, to a certain extent, with the name of Jacques-Yves Cousteau, within the framework of the revival of the Argyronète, with the SAGA project.

Henri Germain Delauze Founder of Comex

COMEX's motto: Push back the limits of underwater work at extreme depths in perfect safety conditions and by giving man the means to ensure the perfection of his work.

Comex's many operations in the marine environment, such as the construction of pipelines and underwater exploration, have enabled it to set multiple diving records.

Comex has earned its reputation with seasoned divers capable of diving to depths never reached before. Comex is a bit like the marine equivalent of what NASA is for space exploration.

Illustration of an active Comex diver

The Rolex Company

For nearly a century, Rolex watches have accompanied explorers and successful people all over the world, from the tops of the highest mountains to the depths of the oceans.

Since Mercedes Gleitze crossed the English Channel by swimming, the brand with the crown has always wanted to be a pioneer in the marine world and the associated sports performance.

Illustration from the Daily Mail newspaper in 1927 featuring the feat of Mercedes Gleitze

 The beginnings of a collaboration

It was not until the 1970s that the vision of the founder of Comex intersected with that of the crowned brand.

Under the initiative of Andre Heiniger, a partnership was established between Rolex and the Compagnie d'expertise maritime, its divers being allocated a Rolex-stamped watch for their mission. This is the start of a long collaboration.

Andre Heiniger, CEO of Rolex and successor to Hans Wilsdorf

Henri Germain Delauze with his exploration submarine has the combination proudly displaying a sticker of the Hydra 8 mission, which during work on a pipeline in the Mediterranean allowed to establish a new record in underwater depth at -520 meters.

This fruitful collaboration notably inspired Rolex to develop a legendary watchmaking innovation: the Helium valve.

Illustration of the Helium valve of a Sea-Dweller (photo Rolex Magazine)

Many tests were carried out in a Comex hyperbar chamber to improve it, up to the current version.

Illustration of a hyperbaric chamber developed by Comex in Marseille

The marking of the partnership

In order to differentiate between COMEX watches and those intended for the public, the watches of the partnership have several specific features. The first copies (in particular of Submariner 5514) have only a very discreet marking on the bottom of the box.

Illustration of a Submariner 5514 Comex auctioned by Antiquorum in 2007 for 35,400 CHF

The mythical marking on the dial will follow soon after.

Illustration of the logo present on the dial of the Rolex Comex

The first versions then carry an index dial painted with Tritium. The latest series from 2000 to 2004 have a Luminova circled index dial.a.

Illustration of 16660 that belonged to Doctor Diran sold for EUR 118,496 in 2018 by the Antiquorum auction house

Illustration of a 16600 Comex dial with luminova circled indexes

There are also Rolex Comex service dials, replaced during overhauls within the house of Rolex. We can then see a drop in value in the results of the auction of copies with such a dial.

Illustration of a Rolex Comex Service dial with luminova

The front of the case back is engraved with a number, allowing Comex to keep a register with the watches allocated to its divers (the typography and the location of the engravings have varied over time). The serial number of the case struck at the lug is also engraved on the back of the case back (not visible).

Illustration of the engraving on a box back of 16600 Comex

The traceability of a Rolex Comex with its first owner (usually a diver) must be exemplary. Indeed, many fake Rolex Comex circulate on the collector's watch market. These are copies that have been assembled from scratch using salvaged (or even counterfeit) dials or casebacks. The certificate bears the prestigious Comex S. A. »

The country code 115 corresponds to the special French assignments, in particular for the Comex.

There are two categories of Rolex Comex:

1. The Submariners

• 5513
• 5514
• 16800
• 16610
• The Sea-Dwellers

• 1665
• 16600
• 16660

This partnership ended in 2004 with the Submariner reference 16610 as well as the Sea-Dweller 16600 whose dial has circled indexes. The serial number of this last production then has a serial number starting with the letter F.

However, the collaboration between Rolex and the COMEX is still relevant, in particular through the hyperbaric tank specially developed by the Marseille-based company to test and develop the Rolex Deepsea.

The Rolex COMEX are among the most sought-after pieces by collectors today, particularly for their rarity and their great contribution to the myth of Rolex divers.

By 41WATCH.