Does History Repeat Itself? - Universal Geneve & Breitling

The announcement on December 12, 2023, of Breitling’s acquisition of Universal Geneve instantly captured the attention of the entire watch world. From the first minute, the acquisition was greeted with the hope of seeing one of the greatest vintage watch brands reborn to its former glory. A Christmas gift from Georges Kern in new stock.

A bit of history on this acquisition: Universal Geneve was hit hard by the quartz crisis and, after a long fall from its former glory, ended up in the hands of the Hong Kong-based Stelux Group in 1989. The group continued to manufacture watches, but unfortunately failed to restore the brand to its status as a powerful company. Rumor has it that several individuals and groups attempted to buy the brand, but in the end it was Georges Kern, Breitling and the Partners Group who succeeded.

In the words of 1942 Universal Geneve: "The faithful control of your destiny"... Who wouldn't want to see such a range come back to life? Universal Geneve and mid-century design at its best! Advertisement courtesy of HIFI Archiv.

While we rejoice in all the possibilities that lie ahead, we are left with a great void and wondering: what’s next? The idea of ​​bringing the mid-century UG back to retail is a great prospect, but what will it look like? Will it even be possible? And what can Breitling bring to the table? There’s no doubt that the first “new” Universal Geneve watch, collection and line will come with a baggage of grandeur and compassion for 70-year-old models…

So, to understand the two brands and their origins, we want to take a more systematic approach by comparing them to see what we can expect. We want to see what these brands have historically in common that could transcend the rebirth of Universal Geneve in 2023.

Breitling, which has been systematically updating its glorious models since at least 2021. Photo (Breitling Duograph) courtesy of Breitling.


1) Historical chronograph manufacturers

Both Universal Geneve and Breitling have a rich history as pioneers and innovators in the field of chronometer complications. Breitling introduced its first (wrist) chronograph in 1915, the first with a separate pusher. The Universal Geneve followed in 1917. In 1934, both brands launched the next evolution of the genre by adding - independently - a second pusher to the functionality.

Both Breitling and Universal Geneve relied on their reputations and prowess to establish themselves in the emerging field of aeronautics. Breitling’s Chronomat (1941) and Navitimer (1954) collections, as well as Universal Geneve’s Uni-Compax (1937) and Aero-Compax (1940s) collections, marked important milestones in civil and military aeronautics and navigation.

A gigantic Universal Geneve (46 mm) ref. 22430 - nicknamed "Universalone". This gigantic reference is the perfect example of a watch combining utility/legibility and style. The Universal Geneve way of life. Photo courtesy of Shuck The Oyster.


Here an important question arises... Why would Breitling have acquired Universal Geneve in the first place? A competitor to its core business model? Because it is not unthinkable that a revamped UG would release one or the other modern version of Compax. According to the press release by Georges Kern and Alfred Gantners, the two brands should exist as quasi-independent entities and cater to very similar tastes.


2) Prices

This brings us to the next section – price. The potential and necessary decoupling between Breitling and UG could come down to price. Breitling has been trying to make a mark in the $15,000 to $30,000 luxury watch segment for some time, taking stakes from brands like Jaeger-LeCoultre, Vacheron Constantin and Breguet. So the rumor is that a fresh start with UG is the next logical step.

A high-end iteration of a 1940s Uni-Compax with a yellow gold case made by Spillmann. Is this what Breitling is going for? Photo Goldammer Archives.


But I have to say that this distinction seems rather arbitrary. Yes, perhaps, but how do you add value to models from a brand that historically targets the same clientele? For example, in the late 1940s, a Breitling Chronomat in steel – one of the brand’s most complicated pieces – cost $100. At the same time, the Universal Geneve Aero-Compax models in steel – which eclipse even the Chronomat in terms of complications – cost $125, or just 25% more. These pieces are primarily utilitarian and not really compatible with our modern vision of fine watchmaking. A price increase from Breitling -> Universal Geneve makes no sense unless…


3) The Universal Geneve was more than chronographs

The advantage of the old Universal Geneve over Breitling is the versatility of its portfolio. Breitling's most recognizable vintage collections are the Premier (a chronograph), Chronomat (a chronograph), Navitimer (a chronograph), TopTime (a chronograph), and SuperOcean (a diver!). Thus, modern fixed-time variations are mostly rebranded chronos or holdovers from the Ernst Schneider era (pre-2017).

A brief overview of the cornucopia of models from the Universal Geneve brand. Various shapes, designs and functions. Photos from the Goldammer archives.

This is the ultimate advantage that Universal Geneve brings to the Breitling/Partners Group Holding portfolio… and frankly would bring to any modern watch brand. UG is much more than Compax. It adds shapes, designs, innovations and one of the most important names in the industry – Gerald Genta.

Genta has done so many good things for and with Universal Geneve - several Polerouters, Shadows, & Disco Volantes - that he will easily shake up the competition. He is now considered a demigod of watchmaking and building on his reputation can take a brand to the next level (see Audemars Piguet, ignore IWC here).

If I had to bet, I'd say that releasing a new Micro-Rotor movement should be high on the to-do list for the new Universal Geneve brand. Photos from the Goldammer archives.


Just mentioning Genta in a watch launch is a plus. But I would go further and say that several functions of UG’s legendary models constitute a unique selling point. Beyond chronographs, calendars and designs, there is the Micro-Rotor. It may not seem like much at first glance, but it is a technology to which it is possible to add immediate value and combine it with historical relevance.

Follow me for a moment. First, Universal Geneve and Gerald Genta were the first to master the technology of an off-center weight to wind an automatic watch. Second, look at what Piaget did with similar Micro-Rotor movements starting in the 1960s. Because of the reduced height, thicker dials—in stone, with intricate finishing and decoration—could be used in watches that were very wearable and very aesthetically pleasing. Third, Patek Philippe, for example, mastered the Micro-Rotor and is a model of what is possible in terms of finishing.

It is probably not the greatest achievement from the modern collector's point of view, but it is an important chapter in the history of Universal Geneve... The (Golden) Shadow collection. The first to use the Microtor movement in series production. Photos courtesy of Christie's, Le Floc'h and Antiquorum.


So I propose that an ultra-thin Microtor collection is possible—at least in my dreams. If done right, it could rival Vacheron’s Patrimony and some of Patek’s entry-level Calatravas. At the other extreme, such a collection could become an interesting hybrid between Piaget’s modern Polo collection and 1970s Rolex Day-Dates. A sleeker, slimmer collection accompanied by a new Polerouter *yes!* would make a lot of sense and make people happy. This technology has the potential to lure customers away from the established brands in the industry.


4) Why could this become a commercial success under the leadership of Breitling*?

This brings me to the final segment, which compares Breitling and Universal Geneve – both vintage and modern. It is fundamentally interesting that Breitling and Partners Group Holding acquired UG. Given the specific challenges that Universal Geneve poses, however, this is a brand that has had a very similar fate to Breitling throughout the last century.

Figure 1. Estimated annual production volume** for Breitling and Universal Geneve between 1930 and 1978.

If we look at historical production figures, we can easily distinguish the correlated trajectories. UG and Breitling both did well (in terms of production) during the war years – demand was high. Both saw the rise in popularity of chronographs in the 1960s and increased production. Both were hit hard by the quartz crisis and were bought by new owners in the 1980s, with a particular approach to their heritage.

In other words, on the chronograph side, Breitling and Georges Kern may already know how to rescue Universal Geneve from oblivion*. The brand’s position, however, is different. At least Breitling was still making a number of watches and had some brand recognition among people who hadn’t yet gone down the vintage rabbit hole. So let’s see how and if it will be marketed to a wider audience.

Wouldn't a new Polerouter collection be great? Photo Archives Goldammer.


5) The conclusion

This brings me directly to summarizing my thoughts on the new Breitling/UG brand. In the words of Chris James Hall, there are reasons to be excited and cautious. First, Breitling and UG chronographs are aimed at virtually the same customer base. It’s unclear what to expect in this space and how the two companies’ approaches will differ.

Second, can a Breitling-UG achieve a higher price point? After all, the Breitling B01 movement is quite old and is already used in Tudor chronographs, which are priced lower than Breitling's. It is unlikely that it can be successfully used at an even higher price point. There is a lot of development to be done, but this also offers the opportunity to develop Breitling at the same time.

What is easily forgotten today is that Universal Geneve has always been driven by design and technology. And this sentiment predates Gerald Genta’s work and legacy. Advertisement courtesy of HIFI Archiv.


Third, it might be tempting to think that with so much overlap between Breitling and Universal Geneve—particularly in the chronograph sector—the modern UG will be a sure success. Stelux, the previous owner, tried to do the same thing in 1994 and 2005, and both attempts ended rather quietly. Let’s not forget that Universal Geneve’s brand awareness—outside the watch media bubble—is limited and much lower than Breitling’s in 2017.

Fourth, the most interesting area for the new Universal Geneve might be outside the ubiquitous chronograph segment. Having names like Polerouter, Gerald Genta, and the first Micro-Rotor offers potential beyond imagination (imho). It can tap into what’s in vogue (and therefore in demand) today and be versatile enough to evolve into something original.

Or maybe we'll even be absolutely surprised by a new brand positioned to storm the women's watch market? It's a booming market... Advertisement courtesy of HIFI Archiv.


Like many others, I can only speculate... and that is why this news has been so exciting and engaging over the past week. We all have expectations and wishes immediately associated with this acquisition. . So why not present UG primarily to collectors and less to the general public? I still hope that the new management will rise to the challenge of selling the idea of ​​a well-balanced and well-executed vintage Universal Geneve to a broad 21st century audience. . But we just have to wait and see what's new and old in the first Universal Geneve watch...