A guide to buying vintage watches

Some watchmaking and fine watchmaking enthusiasts are fascinated by the latest models from the world's leading watch brands, but most are not indifferent to vintage models, those watches of yesteryear that tell a story, that have a soul, and that are passed down from generation to generation. Buying a new watch directly from Swiss or other manufacturers is not easy. But when it comes to buying a vintage watch, that's another story altogether.

The ultimate advice is to seek the help and advice of one or more specialists, if possible professionals and whom you trust, before making a decision. But if you decide to embark on the adventure on your own, here are some wise tips to help you in your choice and in your steps in acquiring your next vintage watch.

 What is a vintage watch?

Broadly speaking, a vintage watch is simply a watch that dates back to the 1970s at most.. It doesn't matter if it's still in its sealed box, if it's been worn for a day or for ten years. It is the date of manufacture that will determine whether it can be considered a vintage watch or not.

That said, the term vintage is relatively often used as a more elegant way to describe a pre-owned or second-hand watch. Many people who have bought an old watch at a barter prefer to say that they have acquired a vintage watch from an antique dealer specializing in old pieces. Terminology can change the perception of the same information completely…

We will also quickly note that for some, the origin of the word comes from vintage / twenty years and therefore anything that is more than 20 years old can by definition be considered vintage.age.

Important vintage or collectible watcheson

These are vintage watches that are often second-hand, but can be worth as much than a new watch. This can come from several different factors. For example, a pocket watch that belonged to abraham lincoln can be placed in this category, and will most certainly be exchanged for considerable sums of money. Some limited editions from the old days will also be considered important vintage watches. This may also be the case for certain models that have rare options, or special calibers that have only been used for a certain period, for example. The sheer rarity of a vintage model can make it fall into the category of important vintage watches.es”.

Used classic vintage watches

These are the watches that are of particular interest to us for this article. These are second-hand watches, which can be found at auctions, barters, antique shops, bazaars, etc. These are watches that can be sold at very low prices, while being true masterpieces of design and quality.

Keep in mind that a watch that has been worn daily for years and a watch that has been purchased but never worn are both considered pre-owned watches. It may be interesting to note the existence of the notion of watches called“OUR“, which are the initials of“New Old Stock“, which could be translated as old new or new stock watches. This designation designates watches kept for years, mostly by watchmakers or collectors, which have never been worn. These watches are among the most sought after pieces by collectors and enthusiasts. Note that vintage watchestage OUR often need tweaking once they resurface, especially oils that dry out over years of inactivity.

The market for these second-hand vintage watches is therefore extremely vast, and may contain marvels, such as pieces of no interest. Some collectors and enthusiasts spend thousands of hours searching all possible and imaginable sources of second-hand watches in search of the few rare pearls circulating at unbeatable prices. So don't think that looking for exceptional watches at low prices at fairs and other barters is an easy activity!

Nowadays, we know that we can find everything on the internet. Indeed, the web is one of the most complete sources of second-hand watches, and you can get great products there. Be careful, however, not to be fooled.

What are the important points to check on a second-hand watch?

During your research, when you come across a piece that interests you, do as much research as possible to determine the condition and authenticity of the watch. Here are a few things to keep in mind:

• You can separate the analysis of the watch by focusing on three distinct parts: The case, the dial, and the movement. At each check, remember not to forget one of these three parts.

• Check for the presence or absence of rust, oxidation, scratches, or other damage. This will give you information about the age of the piece, how it has been maintained, and possibly its authenticity. If any part of a watch that is supposed to be stainless steel shows even minimal signs of rust or oxidation, you are most likely in the presence of a counterfeit.

• Check for the presence of gold or other precious metals, as well as diamonds or other precious or semi-precious stones. Make sure none of the stones are missing or have been replaced. When it comes to metals, remember that there are official international markings that attest to the authenticity of a metal and its quality. Here is some of the important markings on the watches:

• Check the model of the watch using its different characteristics to see if it is indeed what the seller advertises. If the seller seems to be lying about the exact year or model, try to determine if they are in error and acting in good faith, or if they are lying on purpose which signals a scam.

• Take an interest in the water resistance of the watch and intensify your analysis if it is a diver's watch. Discuss with the seller the possibilities of return in case of discovery of water infiltration. However, a good advice, a Vintage diver's watch will never be as waterproof as in the original, so avoid diving with a vintage one…

• Ask the seller if the watch has been regularly serviced by professionals and check that all parts are similar to the originals. If one of the parts seems to have been replaced by another similar one or if you discern signs of significant wear or abnormal oxidation, regular maintenance has certainly not been done.

• Check the serial number and compare it by searching the internet to make sure you are in the presence of an authentic watch. Without a serial number that exactly matches the model you have in your hands or in front of your eyes, it is virtually impossible to determine the authenticity of a watch. The quality of some counterfeits today is absolutely incredible and only expert professionals can claim to differentiate the real ones from the fake ones. We therefore remind you that calling on the pros remains the best solution to avoid unpleasant surprises.

Buying a second-hand vintage watch online

The market for second-hand vintage watches on the internet contains an incalculable number of different parts and models. This is why, before you start your research, we strongly advise you to determine your desires and your needs for your next purchase.

The plan of attack

Take the search for vintage watches like a game. The first step is to prepare your plan of attack. If you are looking for a particular brand, or even a specific model, or even a limited edition in a specific color from a single year, you will not organize your research in the same way. than if you're just looking for a good deal on a vintage watch without worrying too much about the manufacturer or what's in it.

Ebay, leboncoin.fr, etc.…

Sites selling anything and everything from individuals to individuals are a double-edged sword. When it comes to vintage watches, many offers on these sites may be misleading and you run the risk of ending up with a counterfeit, a broken watch, or falling prey to many other scams. If a deal seems too good to be true, there is definitely something wrong Even if you are an expert, you are not immune to unscrupulous sellers who use different photos and descriptions on the site item that you will actually receive..

But on the other hand, it is also on this kind of site that you can come across golden bargains, simply because many honest sellers have no idea of the real value of the coins they have in their hands. , and that some other of them are aware of what they could get from their watches in other circumstances, but decide to part with them at a knock-down price for one reason or another…

Consider only trusting verified sellers with positive feedback rates above 99%. You can also be interested in the sales history of sellers who offer the watches you like. Privilege those who have sold many watches, and who have never received a negative comment.f.

The purchase of second-hand vintage watches on these sites therefore remains risky, especially if we are talking about large sums of money. But if you are a player, take maximum precautions, and it's your lucky day, you can end up with real collector's items for a pittance. But in the vast majority of cases, don't be fooled by the lure of a bargain.…

Specialized sites

Some sites specialize in selling second-hand vintage watches and only let sellers who have been verified and accepted by moderators offer products. Chrono24.com and Jamesedition.com are among the most reputable international sites for the sale of second-hand watches, and the risk of falling into scams is much lower than on the unregulated sites mentioned above. On the other hand, the chances of finding golden deals are also lower. The sellers being enthusiasts, even experts and professionals, they certainly know the market, and are aware of the value of the pieces they offer. You will therefore pay more, but you will have much more guarantees of receiving what you paid for, and not a counterfeit or a broken watch.

Second-hand watch dealers

Stores that sell second-hand watches are still a relatively safe bet. Once again, zero risk does not exist, but having an establishment to contact in the event of a problem remains an important and very reassuring guarantee. Admittedly, all the managers or salespeople in these stalls are not necessarily experts in fine watchmaking. Many of these stores are basically jewelry sellers who allocate part of their space to watches to meet demand. And it goes without saying that a jewelry expert will not necessarily be an expert in vintage watches. Again, it's a double-edged sword. A jeweler with limited watchmaking knowledge is likely to sell exceptional pieces at low prices, without realizing their true value. On the other hand, it is also likely to unknowingly sell counterfeits bought second-hand to former customers who have managed to convince them of the authenticity of their parts.…

Do not hesitate to ask many questions to the person who advises you, in order to check his level of knowledge on the subject. If you have any doubts, with the agreement of the manager or the seller, take a few photos of the parts you are interested in and go for comparisons and checks on the net before returning to the store to make your purchase if your research is conclusive. .

Consult experts and professionals

We remind you one last time: the best way to ensure the authenticity of a watch is to call on experts you trust. It may cost you a little money, but it can save you a lot more in case it saves you from investing in Made in China which should have been Swiss Made.ade”…

So do your research on your end and start by doing all your personal checks. Once you have chosen the watch that suits you and your analysis tells you that it is indeed a real one, entrust the final verification to a trustworthy pro, before going home to sleep soundly, your new vintage wrist watch…